Alpenglow: A Nepal Travel Diary

Annapurna right before sunrise. Before Here's what you need to know about my before: I studied abroad in India and the mountains wedged themselves somewhere between my fifth and eleventh vertebrae. I vowed to go back, to feel the Himalaya more deeply, to venture beyond the Garhwali range. I wanted to go for my 30th, …

once more

Same Adirondack campsite, three different memories. I It is the final evening of our summer training hike. The previous night, we were deep in the Upper Works wilderness, camped out at a lean-to where we'd made too much fiesta rice and had to backpack it all out. It had drizzled the whole evening and because …

Thank You

"Strawberries first shaped my view of a world full of gifts simply scattered at your feet. A gift comes to you through no action of your own, free, having moved toward you without your beckoning. It is not a reward; you cannot earn it, or call it to you, or even deserve it. And yet …

First Steps

I camped by myself for the first time when I was 23. It was in Phoenicia, NY, nestled in the Catskill Mountains, the closest one can get to New York City and still feel connected to threads of wildness. My plan was this: leave work early, drive three hours, camp, summit three mountains, and then …

Memories Are Stronger Than Bone

I met a guy in Moab, and I can't remember his name. He told me about how he was airlifted off Mount Whitney  along with the body of a dead girl, a girl who went hiking with her fiancé and came down with AMS, but instead of following her down, her fiancé chased the summit …

Women of the Wild

"Where's your boyfriend?" a man asked me on the summit of Slide Mountain, the highest peak in the Catskills. It'd been a bad week, so I'd left work early that Friday and escaped to the mountains, my go-to move when the world's feeling extra heavy. This was my third summit of the day, and I …